Monday, February 15, 2010

Day 11- ´I hate Goodbyes´

Up early again, naturally. The boys decided to head to the bus station to find out about getting a bus to Lima. I decided to head up the 150 stairs to Sylwia´s hostel to let her know we made it home safetly and to pick up my stuff. She was so excited to see me, as i started to tell her about my trip. Another girl in her hostel, was ´stranded there´and we quickly exchanged experienses.

After breakfast with sylwia, i went to met the boys and told them there was a big market today. It was filled with anything you could possibly want. Some of it also most likely is stolen stuff. After walking through it, there was nothing we were interested in, so we decided to head to the San Pedro market filled with food and clothing. The boys wanted to do some gift shopping before they left.

The boys had a bus at 6, so at 5 we decided to eat at a cheap veggy restaurant before they left. I bought a box of Gato, cheap but good red wine for our last time together. The boys quickly got their stuff. Ned hailed a taxi, Ike got some more chocolate from Christo, and I started to hug each guy goodbye. It was sad that they were leaving so soon. I said to them Í hate goodbyes´as the taxi took off down the narrow cobblestone street. I have to admit, i shed a tear, as some lady was trying to sell me cheap merchandise. I didnt know what to do, so i went back to my hostel.

Sitting there, i was thankful to be back home in Cuzco and couldnt believe all the crazy stuff i went through in the last 10 days.

Here is a special thanks to all the guys who made my Salkantay Trip Amazing!!!

Ned: Thanks for pushing and encouraging each other up the 4200m mountain. If it wasnt for you, and the secret snikers bar i had in my pocket, I probably woulndt have made it.

Ike:Thanks for making me laugh with all our chocolate river jokes, your beautiful singing, and your pure kindness to always give to anyone!

Andy: You truely have a special gift to take in and appreciate your surroundings. Thanks for reminding me of that!

Doug: Thanks for the walk in the dark to open my sences to my surroundings and to realize the little things and appreciate the few seconds they may last. like riding out an amazing wave!

Lego: Thanks for your beautiful butterfly´s to guide us, to say hi, and to be my only friend when i was walking alone.

Christo from the coca shop: where it all began! Here´s to the twinkle of happiness in your eye, living the simple life, and to a plethera of chocolates!

Salud!

Day 10- ´Get in the Chopper´

Friday Jan.29th 2010
The alarm went off at 7am as we slowly started to wake up. We decided to get in line for our chopper ride out of AC, and the earlier the better chance of leaving today. Packing up, i sadly said goodbye to our open free conference of a hotel room, where i tried to gather up as much garbage before leave. The place was filled with mattresses, clothes, brown paper bags our free snack lunches came in.

We walked up to the trainstation, to find it filled with people already. By 8am, we were waiting at the end of the line, with people quickly filling in behind us. I knew this was going to be a long day, so i sat down and started writing in my book. We decided that we could leave 2 by 2 to go get our free breakfast. I let the other boys go, and by the time I was about to go, people started walking through the line, with a bread roll and a cup of hot chocolate/coffee drink.

The line slowly started to move forward and we got closer to the entrance gate into the train station. I finally noticed that there were two lines formed, parellel to each other. The one we were in was for tourists only. The other line was peruvians, most likely locals. All the tourists, had priority over any peruvians except the elderly or sick. I felt bad that i was walking ahead of all these other people.

Around 11, we finally made it into the gate where they handed us a plastic bag filled with more junk food, and led us to a train car. Above us was a fence where local peruvians, most likely the poor that wasnt gong to leave, were standing watching us aboard the trains. People started handing them some food that we were just given. I threw up a couple of items as well, since i probably wasnt going to eat it anyway. Then onto the train car where we had to cram in with all our luggage and sit and wait. The train was full of garbage wrappers and empty water bottles, same as we were given. People had slept on the train cars the night before to be the first ones out of here.

An hour later, we were let off the train and were led to get into another line. We walked past a resort that was in connection to the train station. This was a nice place, with rooms with a fireplace and big beds with lots of pillows. A spa, an outdor tea room, whatever else possible. We waited in this new line for the rest of the way up to the front.

Around 1pm, we woman came around asking people where they were from. When we told her the U.S. she shreked in joy and said áh, one of mine!´ She was another US embassy ambassador. We had to write down our names, again, as she told us a little about what was going on with the choppers. Apparently, they were supposed to be running every 5-7 minutes, but for some reason it was taking a lot longer. By this point, i was hungry, and was happy to have a bag of junk food. Even though, what ever i ate, only lasted about 20 minutes before i was hungry again. I realized how much, nutritous food, really supplies you with energy compared to just sugar. duh!

Up closer in the line, another guy, wearing a black US police security jacket, came to talk to us. Again, we told him we were from US and he was surprised as well. They had thought they got all the US people out. nope, we were probably the last 7 left (we picked up 2 more). Writing down our info again, he told us he thought that we would get on a chopper around 3 pm. He also said there were two landing zones, and one was for the smaller 7person choppers, then the other for the 25 person choppers. We would mostly likely go in the bigger chopper, but it was possible for is to be split up as well.

Finally at the front of the line, they counted us off and we were led down on to the train tracks to wait for the next chopper. Military police were all over, mostly just standing around. Each time a new chopper came in, people would go up to unload supplies as a new group of tourists were excorted onto the bird. It was exciting standing there, realizing that we got to get a free ride in a helicopter. As our bird came in, they told us to stay low, wear our bags on the front and quickly walk towards the chopper. I had my camera out and taking random photos as i was moving closer. Then 2 guys, thankfully grabbed my arms and lifted me up onto the steps as another guy at the top, lifted me into the chopper, keeping my head low. The we had to move to the back and tightly squeeze next to each other on either side of the chopper. So exciting!!! I was luckily sitting next to a window, so i was able to take pictures of AC as we flew over. An army guy opened the window, so i was able to stick my hand out with my camera to get better pictures. We also had an amazing view of the mountains as we were taken to Oolytaytombo where we would get a bus ride back to Cuzco.

We landed in the middle of a football arena with 2 other helicopters. We were welcomed as we got off the flight and off to the side where we had to once again write down our names. We had to check in again with another US representative and the local peruvian police. Then ushered off to load a small bus, to take us into the city center plaza where we would be put onto a larger bus. It was all so fast, and smooth. They definetly had this technique down packed. We had to wait for enough people to fill the bus, then we were off again.

The ride back to Cuzco was beautiful. We could see snow capped mountains, and lots of farm land plots. We got dropped off at a plaza in cuzco where representatives from all different nations were waiting for their people. I was the first off, and they asked me where i was from. When i told them US, they were like oh, your guy is not here. Ha. awesome! Other countries helping their people out as much as they could. Lego even got a 100 soles from his representative guy. The US told us, that once we were out of AC, they didnt have anypart in helping with travel. So The other guys, still had to find out if they can get a bus out of cuzco to catch their flights in Lima. Nice!

At least we were back! Now, walking around to find a cheap hostel, we settled in and got some food. We stopped in the Coca shop to say hi to Christo and let him know we were still alive! He had just gotten back himself from picking up his wife from Ootatambo. We quickly told him a review of our crazy story, and had completed our circle in his shop, where it all started. He was happy to see us again!

After getting some food, we all just went home. It was a long day of waiting with an awsome bonus of getting a ride in a chopper!

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Day 9- Day of rest!

Waking up on the floor of a large open room was quite a site. It wasnt comfortable, but it was free. This morning was nice because i knew i didnt have to go anywheere or do anything. We actually couldnt. Natually waking up early, around 8am, we went down to get our fre breakfast. Hot chocolate and bread roll. I went off to use the internet, and aftere probably 30 minutes of waiting, then extremely slow connection, i was in the middle of an email to home to let you know i was safe, that the power went out. That was the end of the internet for awhile.

I walked back to the food stand on the train tracks to hand my cup back in for them to reuse it. There were people washing out the styrofoam cups they did get back. Andy helped woman drain out a huge pot of lentils as news reporters started to swarm around. I turned around to see a woman dump out a bag full of onions on the table, along with a few knives. I went to grab a knife to start chopping, as others swarmed around to peel the onions.

A woman came up to me with a microphone and a camera in my face. She startd talking to me in spanish, and i had to tell her, i didnt speak that much spanish. So she started asking me questions in english, like where am i from and what i think about this situation. Also something about nationalitiees. I dont really know, but i told her, that it really didnt matter what nationality you were, people from all over were trying to help each other out since we weere all here together. Then she asked if the onions bothered my eyes. ha ahh no.

I looked up to see where the boys were, but they had disappeared. Later i found out that they went off to help sandbag. I guess they had an amazing experience working with the locals and other guys from all over. They couldnt stop talking about how awesome it was to help, and then the most amazing soup they had when they were finished.

I decided i should try to do some laundry since all my clothes were so dirty. I found a place i could wash them myself in a bucket and i found a big stick that i could scrub at the clothes. It was hard work, i was sweating. I coulndt imagine doing this evryday, and washing big sheets for the beds in the hostels.

At 2pm, we met with JJ who is one of the US embassy representatives there to give us updates of what is going on and when he thought we would get out of there. Most of the elderly, woman with children and injured were out, so now instead of continuing to follow the orderly process they set up, The police stepped in to take over and all order flew out the window. Now people were just waiting in line to get onto the chopper. It was still chaos down by the trainstation, so we decided to stay away. He told us how he tried to get the 2 teachers and college students from Gaustavus out of there. I laughed and told him i was from MN.

I guess today they sent out around 1300 people in the choppers. They kept the last couple of hundred that were waiting inside the train station and were going to sleep on the cars. They were to be the first ones out in the morning. We decided to keep our nice, open, free room and enjoy the festivites in the plaza.

After our meeting, Andy, ike, and i went to the hot springs. Andy and I started to talking to another guy who did the sandbagging. He has been in AC since the friday before and witness all the chaos, so he explained to us, what really happened before we got there.

It turns out, that on Sunday the road collapsed sometime in the night. In the morning, instant panic went through town. People were told helicopters were coming and they all gathered at the soccer fields. But then were told, it was an unsafe landing zone and were moved to the train station. I guess this happened a few times, moving back and forth when actually, no helicopter even showed up. Then rumors started that Americans were paying to be the first people out of there. Hotels and hostels started to raise their rates, and the people that had checked out that morning, now didnt have a place to stay because all the rooms had filled up.

This is why, when we walked into AC that evening, people were chaotically running around town. As we got back to the main plaza, they were handing out more lunch bags full of food. Nothing healthy, but it was free again. We have no idea where those lunch bags came from. They were also making 3 meals a day on the train tracks. So we had plenty of food.

In the evening, i stood in the plaza watching what people that were left, playing volleyball, soccer, music. The boys joined in on a circle that kicked around a soccerball. We all new it was going to be our last night, so we stayed out to enjoy the activites and energy of Aguas Calientes.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Day 8- Dead End

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010
We had planned to attempt to escape from AC today, walking out the same way we came in. A little after 8am, the first words spoken were, ¨Hot chocolate time?¨ from Ike. So we went down to the market for some hot chocolate and a bread roll. Then we packed up our stuff, checked out of the hostel, and attempted down the tracks to be stopped by everyone who saw us. Telling us it was impossible to leave. We were told it was impossible to get to Aguas Calientes, so we thought we would at least try.

About an hour down the road, we came to where the train tracks were no longer on the road. They were in the chocolate river. I commented the chocolate river was ángry´, while Ike responded that it was ´hungry!´Where we were standing, you could see they had shifted about a foot from its original place and before us, a huge section had eroded away. So we found a path up in the jungle and decided to work our way through to get to the other side of the tracks.

Along the way, we ran into Carlos, who was one of the Peruvians who had walked to AC on monday. He told us the roads were fine, and that we could make it to Santa Teresa. I think this gave us a false sence of hope because instead of stopping. We continued on even after seeing the train tracks in the river. After the jungle, we had to go through calf deep water, so not as bad as before. When we made it to the Hydro Electric station, people were surprised that we had made it though. We stopped at a food vendor, bought some bananas and whatever else they had. We asked about the 2 trails, to see which one was do able. They both had roads that had eroded but had alternative trails up in the jungle. So decided to take the route that leads to Santa Thersa.

We had to cross a rickety swing brigde one at a time, to climb up onto a trail. We past abandoned houses where cars and chickens were the only thing left. We started to follow this path for about an hour, over huge rock slides and very narrow edge of the cliff paths. I had just starting thinking that we could make it through, when all the boys stopped, and turned around and were walking back towards me. Apparently, the path had just ended. There was a rock slab infront of them that went no where. How disappointing.

We headed back to the Hydro Electic station to decided what we wanted to do. Try the other route or head back to AC. I wanted to go back, i was extremely tired and burnt out. We bought some more bananas and food from the same guy as we rushed off to make it through the jungle part before it got dark. I was exahusted and needed more food than a banana and chips. Thankfully, Ike offered to make me my tuna sandwich, which i gratefully accepted. Without that, i wouldnt have had the energy to walk back. I would have just sat there and not moved. haha. So eating my sandwich down the tracks.

When we got to the water part again, we ran into a few locals who were carrying large bags of food and other supplies on their backs. They were bringing them into AC. We helped them through the water part and kept going. When we got to the jungle part, we decided to wait for them and help them through. Since we had already been through it, it would be easier for us to make it out again. We couldnt see them, so i mentioned the boys should eat their tuna sandwich and have a break. When the people caught up to us, we shared some left over tuna, passed around water, and then helped them carry their bags up the hill onto the path.

With Doug leading, and us spread out between all the Peruvians, we helped guide eachother through. Towards then end, we had to pass across a gravesite of 4 headstones. It was a little akward, but around the corner we had made it to the other side of the tracks. Doug got us through in about 15-20 minutes. Right before dark. Another half hour and we would be right back where we started.

While walking through the water part, had an idea. What am I doing? I am a back packer, i dont have anywhere to be or anything to do. Why am i trying to hike out of here. Lego and I decided, that when we get to AC, we were going to check out where they have free places to sleep. On the floor in an empty office building, instead of going back to the hostel. We found out there was plenty of space inside and just pick a floor. We walked up to the second level, at the end of the hallway, to a large open room, where a few other tourists from Argentina, were stationed.

I was so tired and exhausted. I thought about going to the hot springs but knew they were closing soon. So i figured id try to find a shower. Afterwards, the line for the free food was finally moving, so i jumped in and got some food. I felt much better after getting clean and food that i was in a better mode, about 90%. I then ran into Ned and Ike and they handed me a bottle of beer. Yes, 100% better! We laughed and talked about how crazy today was after walking a round trip`of about 20km to just end up in AC. I didnt care, i was happy to be back in AC. There i at lease new i had a free place to stay and food.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Day 7 - So close, yet so far!

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010
We got up at 5am, prepared small day packs, and set off with the determination to see Machu Picchu today! We walked back down the train tracks that we had walked in on the night before. When we got to a station, we cut down to get to the bridge that takes us across to the trial to climb up to MP. The ragging chocolate river was flowing below us on the bridge and at points even was splashing against the bridge. Quickly across, we started up the steep incline of steps. They say it takes 2 hours to hike up to MP or you can take a bus up. Since nothing was crossing that brigde, and the boys were determined to hike the whole way. We were off, up the stairs. It only took a little less than a hour to make it to the top. I guess the 6 days of training and no backpack made a big difference.

When we got to the top, we walked up to the gate to only be told that Machu Picchu was closed! What! I guess that morning, 2 people had died on the Inka trail. The woman in charge was frantically running around talking to people, on the phone, and pushing tourists away. Another group of german, english, argentinia, and whatever else, tried to force their way in which only upset the woman even more. WE just stood back and watched. WE didnt want to be apart of that energy. We found a bench and set our stuff down and just waited.

Groups started coming off the inca trail and were also told they couldnt go into MP. So people were scattered all around the front entrance. I watched as one group went into the office to get their tickets stamped with the MP stamp. I wanted to get my passport stamped, so i waited until they were all done. Then the woman walked away and left the stamp on the counter. Standing next to Andy, i asked if he wanted a stamp in his book. So i stamped his book and my passport. As we walked out of the office we started talking to two women who were standing infront of the entrance. We told them we had just hiked 7 days to get here and just wanted to quickly see inside. They told us to come forward and pointed out the two woman in charge. They said to make sure those woman were not watching, and one by one, we could go inside to see and take a picture. We all right! Jus then both woman walked out of the office and down the stairs, and Andy turned around and walked up the walk way toward MP.

I knew I should have gone with him, but decided to wait and go in with Doug. After a while, Andy came back and Doug and I walked up. A little after we walked inside, one of the woman had followed us in and told us we needed to leave. She leaned against the edge of the wall and as she waited for us. When we got to her, she turned and said, ok, one picture. As she led us down more steps, through an entry to a house, which then opened up to all of MP. It was amazing! We each took a few pictures and thanked her as she called us back. I could tell how stressed she was, so i offered her a hug. I hope it helped some.

After a couple of hours of waiting around, A guide had convinced the woman in charged to let his group in. So we jumped on the chance and tagged along at the back of their group. When we got up to that woman, Lego told her that we had also been hiking for 7 days, we didnt have a ticket, but was wondering if we could just have a quick look. She looked at us, recongnizing us from waiting around, and just waved us in. Another guy who was standing there collecting tickets, asked for ours. Lego pointed to the woman, and she said, ´Today, we are not selling tickets, and I am not turning these people away!´ Wow! So into MP we were.

We first just walked around to various landmarks and looked around taking pictures. We ran into the group of german, english... we met earlier that morning. They had bushwacked their way up into MP. WAlking through the maze of various houses with Lego and Ned, we looked to see Andy, doug and Ike standing on top one of the ledges. We quickly found our way up their to join them up by the lookout point. We all just sat on the ledge with our feet over the edge, looking out over MP. It was amazing! There was hardly any people inside walking around. I couldnt imagine it filled with thousands of people.

A few boys decided to walk around to explore more. I went with, but only a few layers down, i was sick of walking and didnt want to go any further. So i sat on a rock and just took in the view. I closed my eyes for awhile and drifted off. When I awoke, i had forgotten where i was, and to see the view before me was breathtaking.

I rejoined the guys on top when Doug and Ike came back. Andy was going to attempt to climb up Huayna Picchu, which is the mountain behind MP. It was blocked off, but he quickly ran up the first levels of stairs. It took him only 15min to get to the top, instead of the hour it takes to walk. Up there, you have an even more amazing view down onto MP. It was cool to say, that he probably was the only person to climb HP that day!

After awhile, we thought it was time to leave. As we walked out of MP, we were awaited by an explosion of people and their stuff all layed out in the sun to dry. We reclaimed our same bench that we sat at before to wait for Andy to come out. We than sat there and made tuna sandwiches before packing up to head back down the mountain. Just as we were to leave, men walked out of the entrance with a stretcher, they had recovered the guides body, and walked him down to a truck. Instantly, complete silence as his body passed us.

We continued on our way down the stairs, which always goes faster than going up. When we got to the bottom, another truck approached, and from across the bridge, we watched as they brought out a stretcher, someone repositioned themselves, on it. And they carried it across the brigde. This may have been one of Argentinian girls who was injured. We stood out of the way, as they passed us.

Back on the trail to Aguas Calientes, there had been a complete shift of energy in the center plaza. People were playing soccer, music, and drinking and having a good time. All the manic people were at the train station trying to get out. People in the plaza were backpackers that didnt care when they got out. So we joined them.

We walked around the market and ate ceviche and papa rellenos. The woman told Ike that if we came back in the morning at 8, she would have hot chocolate for us. We then walked up to where the hot springs were and enjoyed a quite time there. Walking back towards the plaza, there was a huge line where people were waiting for the free food. We didnt want to wait, so we decided to check around the for other cheap food. Everything was closed, by the time we made it around town, and the line was shorter, so we just jumped into the line. We got a plate of food, and sat down in the middle of the plaza, enjoying the view around us.

Friday, February 5, 2010

Day 6 · Magic light around the corner!

Monday January 25, 2010
Woke up to fog all around us. We all slept in til about 9am since we thought we had an easy day ahead of us and we needed the rest. It was a short 2 hour walk to the Hydro Electric station where we could catch a train or walk along the tracks into Aguas Calientes.

After breakfast, we packed up and headed downhill again along more beautiful pathway. For some reason, i was inspired and while walking i started thinking of a poem in my head. I had to stop to get a pen and paper to write some of it down so i wouldnt forget it. At times like this, i wished i had a hand recorder to talk into the things im thinking, because they never come out the same way later when i try to write them down. It was a bit challenging to write and walk while going downhill. I would think of a few lines and stop to try and rewrite them down.

At one point, walking next to Ike, we past a huge mountain that had a hole right in the middle and tons of chocolate water was rushing out of it. Oh look, a chocolate waterfall. This was the beginning of our chocolate water jokes.

We finally came down to more of solid ground and road when we ran into a few guys who were standing along the edge looking out over the ragging chocolate river. Apparently, with all the rain, there was going to be a huge blast of water coming all the way from Cuzco and the river was going to flood. Or there was a dam they were releasing water from. We really didnt understand, but thought that was a good place to wait and have lunch. The guys started to throw around the frisbee and we made bets on how high the water was going to rise. After awhile, the men left because they got bored. We still didnt know what was going on, so we thought we would continue on ahead to the Hydro Station and find out.

At the train station, there were people all over the place waiting. Waiting for what, we really never found out. They said something like, we had to wait for them to open some flood gates and wait for the water to clear. They told us we couldnt walk along the tracks because they were covered in water up to knee, waiste high levels. So we walked to the back of the station building to find some shade and sit with other locals who were also waiting. They handed out some tangerines to us, which were refreshingly delicious. Once again, took my shoes and sox off to dry as we waited.

People started to gradually disappear and we didnt know where they were going. Around 5, someone said that we could try walking down the tracks towards Aguas Calientes. So we jumped on the chance and took off. Along the way, people kept stopping us to tell us we couldnt go any further because the water was covering the track. We were at least going to check it out, and if it was a little water, we thought we would be fine. Two Peruvian guys came with us, and we thought that if they were going to try, we should go with them.

It was supposed to be a 2 hour hike to Aguas Calientes and it was going to get dark by the time we got there. About an hour into the hike, the water levels along the tracks started to get higher and higher. Right next to us was the ragging chocolate river. I stopped to pull up my pants and to put my camera away, just incase. The water level gradually grew, and we were walking in water up to our knees, no higher. Luckily, we all had found various sticks to use while walking and could poke the ground to know where to step.

We made it through two sections of walking through water before we were back to bare tracks. Soaking feet, it started to get dark, so we stopped to pull out our headlights. By this point, my feet were hurting and it was slow walking trying to stay on the wooden planks. Walking with Doug, he asked if I like to walk in the dark. So we turned off our headlights, and walked with the dim light surrounding us. You really had to focus on where you were stepping and only once in a while i would stop to look up and see the ragging river. We came to 2 long dark tunnels, where water was dripping down on us. We agreed that walking at night gave such a different perspective of things than seeing them in daylight. the river and the bugs chirping all seemed louder. It was quite enjoyable.

After making it through the tunnels, where we had a dim light at the end to help guide us through. We caught up to the rest of the group. They were sitting on the tracks eating some chocolate. Right around the corner was a city of lights. This was Aguas Calientes. I have never been happier. We walked into an old western goldmine looking town, and walked into complete caos. It was such a completely different energy than we had been feeling for the past 6 days.

I guess the road on the other side of Aguas Calientes had eroaded from the river, and because the tracks we just walked through were under water, there was no way out of Aguas Calientes, and people were in panic. We ran into some tourists and they told us there was no rooms available and places were running out of food. People were going crazy. Ok, so we checked at 2 of the first hostels right when we walked into town, and they gave us a 4 bed room to share with the 6 of us. We had just spent 5 nights sharing a tent, we didnt mind sharing a room. We pushed 2 of the beds together, and 3 of the guys were going to sleep across the beds. Lego on the floor with the padding we had with. And I and Ned got our own beds.

We dropped off our stuff and walked up to the center plaza where people were running around crazy. Tents were set up for those who didnt have a place to stay and people kept telling us about how helicopters were coming to get people out. We just stood there and watched the manic going on. We were in a completly relaxed energy, that it was too much to watch everyone else. We decided to try and find somewhere to eat, and found a little place down the alley way towards our hostel. They told us they were running out of food and could make us rice, egg,fries, and salad. Perfect! They let us go get our own beer, so we shared a tall bottle between the 6 of us.

We tried checking in at the tourist office to find out info about going up to Machhu Picchu. No one had any exact information. We met one guy who is a guide and he told us that if you go up there, you can buy tickets there and they are not going to turn away people once they get up there. So that was our plan. Get up at 5, and head up to M.P.

Our easy days hike turned into another tough challenging one. 13km hike, walking through water, entering caos, we decided just to go to bed and try and make it to M.P. the next day!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Day 5 First hell · then heaven

January 24th, 2010
Day 5 was going to be our longest hike of about 20km. We want to try and reach the railroad tracks so we can either walk along the tracks or catch the train if needed to get to Aguas Calientes, which is the gateway city to get up to Machhu Pichhu. The next spot on our map was LaPlaya which looked to be only 2km down the road. At our walking rate, it would take about 30 minutes to get there. After about 45min of walking, we got to a house and another tienda where we got a few snacks. This wasnt LaPlaya. Now it had started to rain, so i pulled out my poncho. We didnt know how far we had to go to get to LaPlaya, so the unknown sort of made it a longer trip. i dont know why, but I was already a little crabby this morning, although i tried not to show it. As we kept walking, i ended up in the back of the line again. I must not have packed my backpack right, because it felt uneven which made it uncomfortable. Then the rain would start and stop, so i had to mess around with the poncho. It would get too hot with the poncho, so i had to stop and mess around with taking my jacket off. It was one and off, and i was getting annoyed. Plus, my feet had started hurting and i was trying my best to prevent blisters. Lets just say, this part of the walk, was my least enjoyable.

Although, for the begining, i had Isaac as company as we walked and sang a few songs. The path was pretty level, so i had some oxygen to sing while walking. At points, it was just to exhausting to talk, and had to focus using my oxygen for my muscles. So for this bit of straight land, we sang a few songs. I had Bob Marley, Buffalo Soldier, in my head for probaly 3 days after this. Isaac would stop and look at interesting bugs along the way, so we got a ways behind the rest of the group. Eventually, i even lost Ike, and walked the rest of the way to LaPlaya alone. For what seemed like forever, i finally pulled into the first somewhat ´town´that we have been too. There were more houses, tiendas, and people. There was even a bus that had stopped to deliver supplies, and how much i just wanted to jump in.

I found the guys sitting under some shelter half way down the road. I really didnt want to know, but still asked, how long they had been waiting for me. Around 20minutes. I sat down, crabby, tired, took my shoes off and fixed my feet. The rain, water, and mud i walked through that morning already had ruined the bandages i put on my feet to prevent my blisters, so that was uncomfortable and i wanted to fix it. They told me about 10 minutes up the road there was a restaurant we could eat at. I quickly put on my shoe, and followed. Luckily, only a few more houses up the road, a woman in a shop said she could cook us lunch, so we stopped there. Yes, food would make me feel better. We walked through the shop to the back, where it was her house. There was a big table set up and an open kitchen. Ducks, chickens, and dogs were wandering around freely all over the place. She had to shoo them out the back door with a broom. Then she started to freshly cook our lunch. First thing i did was take my shoes off, and put them outside to hopefully dry a little bit.

As we waited for our lunch to be cooked, we pulled out our map to look how much farther we had to go. We talked to some locals, and they said the train tracks were out because of the landslides and no trains were running. Ok, so now what is our plan. We luckily had a box of Gato, red wine, and decided to open that up as well while looking at the map. We had two options. Follow a road to Santa Theresa where there are hot springs and a hostel we could stay at or follow more of the inca trail where we would climb up over another mountain and camp out where we would have a view at machu picchu. The boys, chose the more difficult trail, up the mountain.

When we got our food, we all ate in silence because it was so delicious and it was the first full meal we had eaten in 5 days. We got a huge plate of rice, french fries, veggy salad, and a slab of beef. For some reason, i havent been eating alot of meat in Peru, so this was just delicious!

After lunch, i got my shoes and they were a little dryer, thank god! I was in a better mode, and new we had a tough trek ahead of us. We walked down the road and got to a T, left was Santa Theresa with hot springs and R was the inca trail. (secretly I wished we were going Left). We walked past a field with kids playing soccer and also pasted the ´restaurant´that we were recommended. We kept going to finally get to a sign that was the entrance to the Machu Picchu inca trail. Beyond that sign, it was all green plants and incline steps.

I started out in the back of the line again, but for some reason i got in my head that i didnt want to be the last one to the top of this mountain. We had gotten to a point were we all stopped and rested, or to look at something, or to take a picture of the beautiful landscape. Our trail was a narrow 3 or 4 foot wide path with the mountain on the left and the drop off cliff on the right. Mountains surrounded us all around. As the boys had stopped to look around, Andy and Lego kept going. I stopped for a second and followed them. i wasnt going to be last!

This is the first mountain that we were actually going to climb all the way to the top and over before getting to our campsite for the night. It was also, the most beautiful trail we have walked yet. For the most part, I was walking alone or close to Doug. He would pass me and I would catch up to him either at a waterfall, or when he would stop to take pictures. Every once in a while, i would see a new, exotic flower or plant, and stop to smell it. Finally, I passed Doug as we were getting close to the top. We had climbed about a 1000m in height, and as we were getting closer, I really started to get mentally competetive. I really wanted to be the 3rd person to reach the top of this mountain. Usually I tell the guys they can pass me, but I wasnt going to let Doug pass me. I had this little game in my head, but it helped push me to get to the top.

Andy and Lego were already at the top, when i started to hear some hoots and hollars. Andy was calling to us as we were close. All of a sudden, there was an opening and a huge stone building was infront of us. It was some sort of old inca structure. We walked around the corner and there was Andy standing in the middle of an open green lawn with his arms in the air. Yea! we made it! It was such an accomplishment to reach it to that point. We walked around a bit into different rooms of this building as it started to sprinkle a little bit and the fog started to roll in. We had beautiful sunny weather the whole hike up the mountain. Walking over to the cliff, when the fog cleared. You could see across to where Machu Picchu and Juanapicchu was.

We waited for another 20 minutes for Ned and Isaac to arrive. Then from this point, we had to hike about 10 minutes down hill to get to the campsite for the night. It was an amazing campsite with little huts where we could set up our cooking stuff and Isaac was able to hang his hammock once again. The rain was on and off, and we were able to set up our tent around the rain. One of the huts had firewood stored under it, and we thought it would be great to have a fire. We found a firepit and Doug set to start making the fire. It was a little wet, but he got one going. I was able to partially dry some clothes around the fire before the rain started to pick up again. We ate our dinner and watching while the fire danced against the rain. The fog had rolled in full force so we couldnt see M.P. anymore.

It was such an amazing day after starting out so shitty for myself. We climbed about 15km and it was all incline after lunch. I enjoyed the hike up as i had songs in my head, and kept getting visited by little butterflys. I believe it was another early night to bed as again we were all exhausted. Day 6 should be an easy day to get to Aguas Calientes.

Day 4- Pretty nice little Saturday!

January 23, 2010
After a miserable cold, wet night, we woke up to beautiful sunshine. We were able to lay our clothes out on the various rocks to dry. The fog had lifted and we could finally see the view that surrounded us. Up behind up on the hill was another farm where the farmer from the night before had casually walked in the rain herding a flock of llamas. As the sun rose, so did more animals as the sheep, horses, chickens swarmed our little hut.

The sun was too enjoyable this morning that it took us a lot longer to get packed up and back on the road. As we continued on down the road we past the farm house we could only see in the fog last night. We continued on a downward path for most of the way until we came to a valley. It looked like a dead end and all i could see was a mountain with trails of switchbacks straight across from us. I didnt want to go, but new there was no way around it. We kept walking where we came across a little farm site, Lego went to talk to them and asked for directions to make sure we were on the right path. As i was standing infront of a handmade twig fence, i heard little kids laughing. I couldnt see any kids, until i looked right through the fence. They were hiding. A little boy and 2 little girls. I talked with them, asked their names and ages. Took a quick photo and we were on our way. Up a little further was a tienda (food, supply shop). There they told us we were gonig to cross another river, so we decided to buy some eggs, 2 bottles of beer, and head down to the river to have lunch. The sun was shining, the river was cool and refreshing, and we were the only ones around. First we all took our shoes and sox off, washed up a bit in the river, and then started the eggs. And for desert, we shared some of Christo's brownies and chocolate bar. It was such a nice, peaceful, relaxing little saturday. We spent over an hour there, and decided we better get going since we already had a late start.

Up over the bridge, we got stuck behind some horses along our path. They didnt want to move and there was no room to pass them. So without getting too close, we pushed them on further ahead until we could pass them. We had heard that up further were some hot springs, but because of the rock and mud slides, they were shut down. We didnt realize how much the rock slides took out the road until we got to them and had to climb over them. Our path was just back and forth switchbacks heading down into the valley. At times we were getting sucked into mud and had to find the parts that werent as muddy to get through. At one point, instead of trying to get through all the mud and walking back and forth, we just slide down the middle between each layer of switchback. It was a lot faster, and it was easy to slide down with the dirt than work through sticky mud. It was kind of fun! At the bottom, he kept going to try and find those hot springs. We now had another interesting, narrow steep decline of a path to follow next to the raging river. We came across two pools that were empty, and landslide that was around the areas of the pools. As we were making our way down, an old man decided to sit, have some food and watch us work our way down towards him.

We new there was also a waterfall somewhere coming up and he told us it was another hours walk. Then past that was a place where we could camp for the night. Its hard to gauge where all these landmarks are from our map. So may times we thought we were closer than we really were. It was late in the afternoon and we had to rush to get there before dark. Finally after an hour, we came across this amazing waterfall. There was a little makeshift bridge that crossed over it. It was intense to stand on that bridge and just watch the water rush below me. I kept walking, and at this point, i had lost all the guys and I was walking in this enclosed path filled with beautiful, green plants. I would walk and just catch the scent of an amazing new smell, so id stop to check it out. Maybe that's why i always came in last behind the group. All of a sudden, i turned around the corner and a huge green pasture opened up before me. It was heaven, and I new i was home for the night. A welcome sign above a gate lead me into this pasture. There was another tienda shop there but it was all boarded up. We walked around to find the right spot to set up our tent, just as it started to sprinkle. Amazing timing, again. We then heard the sound of dogs barking, and a few girls yelling at them. They were coming down the hill to check on who had arrived. We checked to see if it was alright to camp there, and if the water was ok to drink. They later came back to open up the tienda where we bought some food and mainly treats from them. They made some good money on us, and went back up the hill as it started to get dark, and we started to make dinner.

It was so much warmer in this campsite compared to the last 3 nights. I could walk around with my nice alpaca sweater on with out bundeling up in all my clothes. Even sleeping was comfortable. We sat around under the sheltered area after diner, talking and telling more stories. Ike set up his hammock again over where our food was cooked. We probably went to bed early again this morning, as we do everyday because of exhaustion.

I remembered laying in my sleeping bag, listening to the light sound of rain outside and hearing Ike whistle himself to sleep, thinking, at this exact moment. I am completely happy! It was such a beautiful day of hiking about 18km and the adventure we walked through, to end it with the beautiful sounds of rain, music, and peacefulness.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Colca-Giving to the familes

Today was a great day! This morning I met at Sylwia´s hostel at 750am to help carry all the clothes, toys, and food she had bought with money people had donated to her to help the kids. She was in the coco shop (seems everything starts there) asking where she can donate all this stuff, when a woman who lives down the street said her village, Colca, needed supplies for the families that lost their homes in the flood. So today, we brought all the stuff the Carmens house, and went to the market to buy some more food. Rice, sugar, salt, pasta, soap, clothes, toys, paper and color pencils. You name it, we brought them alot of stuff.

We met back at Carmens with the rest of the food we bought. Then Carmen, Andrea (daughter), Rachel(friend), Sylwia, and I got in a taxi with all the supplies to get a Collectivo (another taxi but cheaper) to take us to Pisac which is about an hour away. Along the way, the road still had rocks on the sides that had fallen from the sides. At one point, there was only one lane because there was a pile of rocks. When we got to Pisac, we saw the bridge that had collapsed and people on the sides of the roads trying to clear up large rocks. The collectivo took us further to another brigde that you only walk across. From here, we had to carry all the supplies to the other side to catch another bus to get to Colca. On both sides of the bridge there are buses with people trying to get you to get into their bus or taxi, food venders selling all sorts of food, and some clothes. We could only carry half of the supplies we had, so we left Andrea with the rest and would come back. When we got to the other side, buses and taxis where bidding for us to go with them. The bus wanted to leave right away and was only charging 1 Sole (about 30cents). We told him we had other stuff and would need to get it, when Andrea showed up right behind us with all our stuff in a wheel barrow a guy was pushing for her. Perfect. We got on the bus and off we went to Calca.

Getting into the city we could see areas that were destroyed from the flooding. Houses are usually made out of mud and grass, so they just melt away in the water. We got dropped off in the city center and with in the city, you can see its a nice place. We then got 2 tuktuks (motorcycle taxis) to take us to an area where people were living in tents and their homes behind them were destoyed. Carmen went to talk to them and tell them we have supplies for them. We first met a few kids who asked to get their photo taken and then wanted to see it. Sylwia gave them each a toy and they were so happy. When we brought in the food and clothes, people were in a mad rush for all the free stuff. They set up a line right away to wait to get stuff. It was crazy as Sylwia, Carmen, Andrea, and Rachel handed out supplies. I stood back to take pictures and just to watch the craziness. I handed out a few toys and took pictures witth the kids. Within an hour, they had handed out all the stuff and we were done. They thanked us and clapped as we waved and said goodbye.
From there we walked away in ahh of the crazyness. How those people swarmed to get stuff, and those that would hide what they got to come back to get more. And to see the houses that were destroyed.

We left there and was waiting for a bus to catch, when they decided to go to Carmens parents house. Now this was a house. Far away from where the flood was. We walked in and through the house, it opened up to a huge forest in the back yard. There were trees with all sorts of different fruits and flowers and plants. Even further back, you went through a gate and they had a little field where they planted potatoes and along the fence were beautiful rose bushes. We picked the fruit right off the tree and ate it. None of it, i have ever seen or tried before. They even had me climb up a tree onto the roof of the house to pick some of the fruits that were ripe. It was so peaceful in this garden. Beside all the unique fruits, it reminded me of home.
Leaving Carmens home, we made it back to Pisac to get some Choclo and Queso, which is a big ear of corn with a slice of cheese. I also got some sort of donut thing with syrup drizzled ontop. So good! Then back to the madness of getting drafted into a bus to head back to Cuzco. What a nice day. We made some people happy.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Day 3 - Up 1000 Meters, down even more

January 22, 2010.
I woke up to see the beautiful snow capped mountains out of the window slit in the tent. It was a bit chillier as we were closer to the mountains. Today was going to be the most challenging day as we knew we had about 15km hike with the first half of it being all incline and the second half all downhill. We made our eggs that we had boughten from the food stand the day before and had a delicous egg, peanut butter, cheese sandwich. I needed all the carbs and protein i can get for this hike. We all new that today was going to be the most challenging, and just standing at our campsite looking at 3 mountians infront of us. We had to walk around the center mountain and disappear somewhere behind it. Further up the road, was a hotel for people who pay to go on the inca trail. It was beautiful and had balconies facing the mountains and of course a hot tub outside in the ground. It was closed for the wet season. It was a beautiful sunny day as we started our trip up the road. Our first challenge was to pass over a river, we knew there was a bridge somewhere and had to back track through the forest to find the bridge. And when i say bridge, it was a few wood logs wrapped together with mud and grass to fill the gaps. It felt solid, so across i went. There was another food stand across the bridge before we were to start on the trail. The boys bought another box of Gato red wine! GATO! I thankfully bought a snikers bar which helped me get through this rediculous hike we had today.

We started out with a few switchbacks that gradually got steeper, until finally the road became a narrow rocky path. It wasnt a nice easy walk, you had to constantly watch where you are stepping because of all the loose rocks on the ground. The switchbacks kept getting steeper and steeper and Ned and I were in the back of the bus (last in line) We climbed up each switchback and took a rest at the top. I found that after each streatch we did, i had to streatch my hamstrings and a drink of water was so refreshing to keep going. We both encouraged each other to keep going and would set goals. We would say, ók, lets make it to that rock´ and push ourselves to get there. Stretch, water, and here is where my snikers bar came in handy. Every once in a while, i had a bite and i swear it helped me go for about another 20 minutes. After a while it started to sprinkle and we stopped to put on our rain pants/jackets and poncho. I tied the ends of the ponco together and when i kept my hands inside, i was pretty warm. It was pretty cold out, and the rain didnt help, that i had plenty of layers on and didnt get over heated.

While Ned and I were at the end of the line, 2 boys passed us carrying a few supplies and were making it up the mountain with no effort. One was even wearing sandles. It didnt take long to loose them out of sight. We kept up the mountain, and probably a half hour later, passed them sitting behind a huge rock to have lunch. WE kept going to catch up to the other guys, when they passed us again. great! We never saw them again on the trail. We were growing so much in altitude that the landscape wasnt green grass, trees or forest anymore. We were getting into bigger and bigger boulders and rocks all over the side. We were walking for a few hours, and finally all i could think about was having a tuna sandwich for lunch and was wondering when the boys ahead of us were going to stop. We were planning on having lunch at a lake, but never found one. So we came up upon the boys sitting behind a huge boulder to block the wind and rain to have a snack. Just a snack, no tuna sandwich! They wanted to keep going to find this lake. Hello snickers! We kept going and Ned and I lost the boys once again. We kept climbing and finally made it to the top at around 4600 meters. Ned and I stopped and gave each other a high five and rested. That was such an accomplishment to get to the top of that hike. All around the boulders, people from past trips had built that little rock pyramid where you layer a smaller rock ontop another rock. I wanted to make one myself, but now was freezing cold, wet, and just wanted to get to this shelter where we were going to camp for the night. So i quickly found a rock and added it to another exhisting pyrimid that looked like it needed an addition. Maybe add some longevity to whose ever rock statue.

Now it was all down hill. When you think down hill, you think easy. Not exactly. The path was covered in all different sizes of loose rocks that you had to step around. and just as steep as the incline was, so was the decline. We had climbed up about 1250 m in altitude and were going down even further than that. Instead of just my body getting tired, my brain and eyes were just as exhausted. I had to conciously watch every step. My brain was working over load as my feet were taking the constant brutal beating of every step.

Finally getting to somewhat even ground, the rocks were still everywhere. Now mud and wet ground was another issue to walk through. At this point, i had lost all the guys and was all on my own. I really wanted to get to the camp so at times, i started to run through the maze of rocks. I would get so far until the weight of my backpack was too much or i just was too tired. In the distance, I saw what looked like two different houses. This inspired me to keep going and i started to run again. Finally, i caught up to the other guys at the river that we had to cross once again. I had picked out which rocks i was going to jump across so i wouldnt get wet. The first step i took, the rock moved and in both my feet went. I had managed to stay dry through all the rain,and now my feet were soaking. A little bit further, we crossed another small wood log brigde to get to one of the buildings. It was locked up. We stood under the overpain for a while just to get out of the rain. It was freezing cold and we were all hungry. We never did find that lake, so we decided to have lunch here sometime around 2pm. We really couldnt tell where we were from the map. We thought we were at either of two places. Lego walked up to the other house to see if anyone was there to find out where we were and if it was further to the campsite or if that was it. That too was locked and boarded up. Most of these buildings were closed because the inca trails are closed in february because it rains so much. After eating, we just decided to stay there. Also there was an open shelter on the side of the building that we could set the tent up under. The rain never stopped, it would only get stronger and lighter for awhile. I was so miserably cold. We made hot water for tea and to fill in our nalgeans to put into my sleeping bag. Another sandwich, and we just went to bed to try and get out of the cold. Even though we were under some shelter, our tent still leaked. So we had to line our sleeping bags up along the short distance. This time there were all 5 of us inside. It was a bit tight, but warm. With my bottle of hot water, I slept alot better than i thought I would. It was probably only 9pm when we all went to bed. It was such a tough, challenging day of about 15km, and we were all exhausted.

I started thinking, that a year ago, I never would have been able to do this trip after breaking my ankle. Thanks to this past rugby season and training as much as i did to get stonger and increace my endurance, i was able to keep going. It really was a big part for me to accomplish this day especially, but the whole trip in general. Thanks Amazons and Stephen (Lyons Gym!)